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paulus
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OC Newbie
15 Jahre dabei !

AMD Duron


If invar's guess is true you would have to simulate the open switch in the resistor mod with a closed 5 th L3 bridge.

So my suggestion is: Close the 5 th L3 bridge using silver conductive ink with a U shaped connection around the gap you made with you knife. Insert the cpu and let it boot with the 8.5 Multiplier. Power down and remove some of the conductive ink so that the 5 th L3 bridge is open again. Reinsert the cpu and hopefully see 1650 Mhz on startup.
But don't try this right away! It would be safer if invar and or Tassadar gave some comments on this "method".

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Lupson
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OC Newbie
14 Jahre dabei !


Thanks for your replies guys. Since I have no conductive silver ink at the moment I guess I'll have too wait until I can get hold of some if I am to try paulus suggestion. Im not very familiar in the internal workings of the different bridges and similiar things, but isn't the fifth L3 bridge there for the multiplier control? Are you sure you don't mean the new fifth (On t-breds) L1 bridge?

BTW, would it work if I took a tiny thread of copper cabling wire and bent it to an U. Then cleaned all contact surfaces with acetone and then placed it the same way I would have painted the U. Then I'd secure the wire with a little piece of sticky transparent plastic tape. (Scotch tape in english?) ?

I read through some of the other posts, you seem to be a knowledgeable group of guys. Would it work measuring the resistance between the bridges with a multimeter? If one bridge somehow has reconnected itself or has grounded into the metal below the bridges, would it be possible to determine which bridge is faulty then? I guess a really high resistance between the two "dots" of a bridge would mean a properly cut bridge, while a low resistance would mean connection.

Well, enough for now - thank you again for your kind help!

EDIT: Impatient as I am, I tried to use a wire to connect the 5th L3 bridge, but it didn't post. I tried resetting CMOS and using the reset button trick but neither helped. Then I removed the wire and tried to boot, but again - no post. Tried the same procedure with the 5th L1 bridge but without getting any posts. Inserted my old processor and like the last times, it required a press to the reset button before posting.

(Geändert von Lupson um 19:02 am Jan. 21, 2003)

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paulus
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OC Newbie
15 Jahre dabei !

AMD Duron


Sorry to hear that it didn't work. Closing the 5 th L3 bridge using a tiny copper wire is possible but not the way you tried to do it. (You will never get good contact by applying Scotch tape.).
There is an alternative to the silver conductive ink method:
You must form a small loop with a piece of wire and put it around 2 pins on the downside of the cpu. I have never done this myself so I don't know any details but I am sure you will find good explanations of this method in this or another forum.

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invar
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OC Newbie
14 Jahre dabei !


my knowledge of this stuff is pretty much limited to what i have found on this forum and then making an educated guess based on that.  sorry lupson.

i know it's kind of late to say, but i think you should have gone the AJ27 resistor mod method instead of cutting/connecting the bridges on the CPU.

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paulus
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OC Newbie
15 Jahre dabei !

AMD Duron


I just pass this on to you because it fits in this thread however I must admit that I find this hard to believe.

http://forum.oc-forums.com/vb/showthread.php?s=ebabbf0242bbb38b9ab4605e94222a35&threadid=158672


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Lupson
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OC Newbie
14 Jahre dabei !


paulus: Read through that thread. Wether to belive it or not? I don't know, at least the guy is very open about it and gives plausible explanations for most things he has done.

I still think my processor somehow must have shorted a bridge somewhere. Hopefully I'll get my thumb out of my **** and go visit a friend who's got a multimeter and has a collage degree in electronics. I mean, it DID work for 4 days. I'll be damned if I cannot get it to work again. Or maybe I should get some conductive ink, reconnect everything to the way it was from the beginning, and then do the AJ27 resistor mod instead of desperatly carving deeper and deeper into the CPU.

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Skligmund
aus Alaska
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Member
14 Jahre dabei !

AMD T-Bred
1733 MHz @ 2430 MHz
10°C mit 1.90 Volt


Ground the 4th L3 Bridge to the CPU. In other words, cut it too deep and then paint over it agasin. Although your multipliers will drop 4X, you get 133FSB and the ability to close the 5th L3 bridge. It works, I had actually done it by accident, but found out later it was actually the work-around for doing what I was trying to do, get 133FSB.


Whiskey. Tango. Foxtrot.

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Lupson
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OC Newbie
14 Jahre dabei !


I eventually found the problem and solved it. It turned out none of my cuts were actually faulty, I borrowed a multimeter and discovered that the problem was a tiny scratch I accidently had inflicted upon the 3rd L3 bridge. With my L3-bridges cut in that way the multiplier was set to 18.5x or something like that which simply was too much for my system to post with. I reconnected the faulty bridge with a carbon pen - and voila! - it posted and worked like a charm and has done ever since, at 105*16.5x.

Regarding 133 Mhz FSB, I doubt my motherboard (KT7-RAID) can handle anything above maybe 107 Mhz, though maybe Ill try that out sometime when Im not depending on my rig to for work etc.

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Skligmund
aus Alaska
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Member
14 Jahre dabei !

AMD T-Bred
1733 MHz @ 2430 MHz
10°C mit 1.90 Volt


I forgot you had a KT7 not KT7A or E... It probablty won't work, unless your bios gives you the option.....


Whiskey. Tango. Foxtrot.

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