Athlon Bridge Cutting Question

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--- Athlon Bridge Cutting Question

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-- Veröffentlicht durch godisturbed am 12:28 am 6. Mai 2003

cut and reconnect the L3, L4, L6, and L7.

How do you know what ones to change for the multiplier you want?

I have  an athlon 1400 and want to get multilpier to 15 or 16, how would i know what to do to those bridges?

-- Veröffentlicht durch ocinside am 14:20 am 24. März 2002

:lol: :afro:
This is my main PC i need for all hp works, so it have to be calm ;)
BTW the CPU is trash, i'm happy to get it stable at this rate :(
have to buy a new one, soon.

-- Veröffentlicht durch hulio am 23:12 am 23. März 2002

ocinside: look at your cpu o\verclock!  it sux, cant you gety more??
your lame:punch:

just joking

-- Veröffentlicht durch ocinside am 21:09 am 9. März 2002

I couldn't find out the exact function about these L2 and L5 bridges, sorry.

The cuts aren't too difficult with a scalpel, but i already know the answer of most german forum poster - "take a 12 V power supply unit and :bomb: the bridges away :lol:
Yes, it's no joke - It's the reality and works ! ;)

-- Veröffentlicht durch ZildjianMM am 20:42 am 9. März 2002

I'm Running an Athalon on Socket A - It is a 1.1GHz@1.25 currently. I wish to change this but ABIT dosen't have any higher multipliers in the BIOS. So I'm planning on erasing my penciling of the L1 bridges and then i'll need to cut and reconnect the L3, L4, L6, and L7. I was wondering how i can go about cutting these bridges without messing up my processor. I realize i take a sharp knife and cut them, but does anyone have a guide or advice on how to go about cutting these bridges? Also... does anybody know what the L2 and L5 bridges do on the orginal Socket A Athalons?

-- Veröffentlicht durch ocinside am 18:52 am 4. März 2002

Yes that's right, it's damn easy to connect a little piece of copper to ground but with a very sharp knife it's possible to break the bridge with ONE cut ;)
Then it's nearly impossible to connect it to ground.

-- Veröffentlicht durch hulio am 11:40 am 4. März 2002

i realize that if i clean the bridges well and then
contact them exactly from the centre, say, with the wire and silver cement method

before i have painted right across from one contact to the other and across the cut area in the middle which was insulated with super glue (i figure that would have covered it, but then i scrape off excess like shown at toms hardware, with a knife, and that probably could expose a little copper if it was flaring up)

-- Veröffentlicht durch ocinside am 13:09 am 22. Feb. 2002

I think your problem may be some scratches onto the surface beneath the bridges of your CPU.
You should try to insulate a part around the bridges carefully to prevent a connection from any bridge to ground.

-- Veröffentlicht durch hulio am 7:20 am 21. Feb. 2002

i not get my multiplier off 16x.
first i got nothing until being real careful about closing with silver correction pen and masking (thermal paste didnt work as insulator, mabe it conducted to the copper, or the copper was poking up???)

then i got 16x, so tried 16.5: cut first l3, close 3rd l3.:: still shows 16x at POST.

now i want to try 17x and am worried about correctly CUTTING the last l4 bridge, and as well i tried closing the 5 l1 bridges aND FAILED. just wouldnt do it. does the copper underneath that i cut with exacto knife flare up towards contacts mabe?  

scared to CUT the first l4
scared i wont be able to get contact to CLOSE back anything, nomatter how careful.. what gives?  everyone else gets it even with a crayon, i cant even with careful masking and corrective pen applied with a needle!!! :megacry:

(Geändert von hulio um 7:32 am Feb. 21, 2002)

-- Veröffentlicht durch ChrisGlenn am 15:02 am 23. Jan. 2002

Yes 55°C is hot I agree.  But this is with the retail boxed processor heatsink.  I am sure it is made by Cooler Master EP5-6i11-a1
For testing purposes, I wanted to see how much heat the CPU could sustain at the 1400 default speed.  I used a hair dryer and I stopped once it said 73°C.  I've never ever seen it that hot and I thought it would have crashed by then.  I may be in for a super overclocker, if it can sustain heat like that at 1400.  I am going to try for 1600 with multiplier changing alone to 12.  I will be using the Millenuim Glaciator 2 with a c/w of .34
I have calculated this theory for 1600 MHz:

(C/W * WATTS = Delta) + Case = CPU Temp
(0.34 *   91.6   =  31.1) +   30   =   61.1

too hot?  Should I just satisfy myself with an overclock of 1540?  Or should I go for 1600?  There's really only one way to find out.  Thats to do it.

(Geändert von ChrisGlenn um 15:04 am Jan. 23, 2002)

-- Veröffentlicht durch SirHenry am 8:44 am 23. Jan. 2002

Chaintech 7SID   ????

with  SIS 735  Chipset???

were are Softwaretools like  CPU-FSB or CPU-COOl
you can also use these tools to  increase FSB Setting by Software.

btw - i´ve saw your temperature.  55°C @ 1400 MHz
It´s TO HIGH  !!! -  okay - not yet - but if you want
to overclock  it WILL BE to HIGH!

and don´t forget - NOW we have winter -  what would be in the summer ???

what kind of cpu-cooler did you use?

-- Veröffentlicht durch ChrisGlenn am 1:35 am 23. Jan. 2002

I have an answer from posting at located here
A user by the name of myv65, states "If your motherboard doesn't support multiplier manipulation, then you must work with L3, L4, and L6. The status of L1 does not matter in this instance. If your motherboard does support multiplier adjustment, you should also leave L1 alone and simply use the BIOS or dipswitches as appropriate."

So I have my answer, I don't need to touch my L1 bridges.

In reply to your questions.  I have just recieved the Chaintech 7SID motherboard, and it does not feature multiplier changing in the bios or with jumpers.  No FSB changing is available either, only 100 or 133.  This is why I must change the bridges.  I have not been able to find an unofficial BIOS for the 7SID, I wish I could.  thank you for your post.

-- Veröffentlicht durch SirHenry am 0:51 am 23. Jan. 2002

Hmm.... good question...

don´t now - yet  ;)

but what about your bios ???
is were a  new Version?  or a inofficial  BIOS Version?
what  Mainboard did you have???

and what about  JUMPERs onboard???  you can also use jumpers to modify the multiplier.

-- Veröffentlicht durch ChrisGlenn am 22:53 am 22. Jan. 2002

Thank you for your reply.  I would use the bios to overclock but I have no bios options.  I must use the painting guide and change my L3 L4 and L6 bridges.  My question is do I need to disconnect the L1 in order for the L3 L4 L6 change to work correctly?

(Geändert von ChrisGlenn um 22:55 am Jan. 22, 2002)

(Geändert von ChrisGlenn um 22:56 am Jan. 22, 2002)

-- Veröffentlicht durch SirHenry am 22:01 am 22. Jan. 2002

no - you don´t have to.

if all L1 Bridges are already connected - you can choose the
multiplicator by BIOS or Jumper.

in other words - if L1 Bridges are connected  your CPU is UNLOCKED !!!
Just Overclock !! :punk:

you can also close the L7 Bridges - that means the
VCore is set from 1,75 --> 1,85 V.

-- Veröffentlicht durch ChrisGlenn am 21:44 am 22. Jan. 2002

I will be manually changing the bridges on my Athlon Thunderbird 1400 in order to achieve some overclocking.  In the painting guide here on the site, the writer/author states:

"Close all L1 bridges if you want to change the VCore and multiplier via BIOS or Jumper.
Otherway leave all L1 connections open !!!"

My L1 Bridges are already connected.  The CPU came this way from the manufacturer.  Should I disconnect the L1 bridges?  I will be changing the multiplier to 12.5 by changing the L3 L4 and L6 bridges.  Will this work if I leave the L1 bridges connected?  Do I need to disconnect them?  Thank you! PC Forum
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